Posts Tagged ‘photo tips’

Persistence Pays in Photography

Sep 6 2011

Santa Monica Pier at Sunset

Canon 5DMKII + 24-70mm f/2.8, 43mm, f/16, 10s, ISO 100.

After my big move out of my San Francisco apartment, I thought I’d take myself and my wonderful mum, who helped my move, on a little California photo vacation before heading back East. It’s always been a dream of mine to shoot the Santa Monica pier after seeing it in a number of movies/tv shows, so last night I trekked out onto the sandy beach and snapped this shot.

This shot was all about persistence. When I arrived at the beach, it was quite foggy and the light wasn’t great. The colours were muted, the sky was grey and there were a lot of pesky tourists parked right in the middle of my shot. After waiting for almost an hour, the sky suddenly turned a gorgeous shade of purple with a misty pink horizon. So, I had my sky. Next, I needed a great reflection of the lights on the pier.

My shoreside set up. About to get drenched!

I tried a number of different angles on the beach and levels on my tripod. Unfortunately, the sweet spot for the reflection and composition was very close to the shoreline which meant that when a large wave came in, I was calf-deep in salty ocean goodness. I also had to time my 10s exposure just as the waves were pulling out so that the sand was wet enough to create the best reflection.

Santa Monica Pier

Setting up the shot.

Next came the ferris wheel spin. Much to my chagrin, the ferris wheel spun very sporadically and with numerous lighting patterns. It was hit or miss, so I had to take a lot of shots. I took over 100 shots waiting for the perfect combo of tide out, good reflections, and ferris wheel spin and this photo was my very last shot. Needless to say, my mum was not impressed that this whole process took nearly 1 1/2 hours of “one more photo”. She had long since put her tripod and camera away and was hopping up and down to keep warm.

When we got back, she wasn’t really happy with the photos she took. She lamented about the fact that her less expensive, Canon XSi (450D) couldn’t take as good pictures as my 5DMKII, but I said that the difference between our photos wasn’t the fact that I had the better camera, but that I persisted longer to get the shot.

Over the past 2 years, I’ve taken almost 30,000 pictures with my 5DMKII. My first shot was out of focus. My 100th shot was over-exposed. My 1607 shot was completely black. My 3056 shot needed a lot of post-processing. But, this shot, my 29,604 shot was great straight out of the camera. Why? Because I had 29,603 shots to practice my skills, so that when I finally got to this beach to take a shot I dreamt about for years, I knew what camera settings to use, how to compose the shot, and to wait an hour and a half for great light.

The bad news is you can’t skip the steps it takes to learn how to use your camera settings, compose great shots, and perfect light. But, the good news is that anyone with a relentless determination and passion can go to this exact spot and take an equally great photo.

Double Rainbow over Manhattan

Jul 22 2011

Double Rainbow over Manhattan
5DMKII + 16-35mm, 1/5000 at f/3.5, ISO 200 + Photomatix.

I’m always chasing rainbows. Any time I see rain clouds part and a burst of sun stream through I think, “there is a rainbow somewhere!” Fight or flight kicks in, I grab my camera, and I race against the clock to grab the perfect shot.

I was in my living room when I see the thick thunderclouds break with a bolt of sun and I instantly lunge for my camera (which of course has no memory card in it). Gah! I frantically search my apartment and find one… that is completely full. Arg. I delete some photos and dash out of my apartment towards the elevator.

After a few agonizing minutes it arrives and I head up to the sky deck. I open the door and BAM — the most vibrant double rainbow I’ve ever seen. It’s still pouring out and I’m getting drenched, but I have the biggest smile on my face. This shot is perfect. I turn on my camera, look through my 24-70mm lens and realize, with utter dread, that this lens isn’t wide enough to get the whole rainbow in the shot. I’m gutted. I feel the floor cave in while my perfect shot is slipping away. I pout. Maybe swear a little. I reach for my iPhone and I grab a few shots. They are cool, but I need my 16-35mm.

Taken with Camera+, FX: Vibrant.

I decide that I can’t give up and book it to the elevator. As I’m heading down again, my stomach is literally sinking. I know the rainbow is fading. I get off the elevator and run to my apartment. I turn the key in the lock and it doesn’t work. Wrong key? I try a different one. Wrong FLOOR. Ahh!! At this point I nearly lose it.

The elevator is taking ages to arrive again. Each second that passes, I feel my dream photo vanish. I finally get back to my apartment, grab my 16-35mm and head back up. I burst through the sky deck door and start shooting furiously. The rainbow is fading rapidly, but I manage to catch it’s last few breaths before it dies.

Magic Kindgom Sunburst

Jun 26 2011

Sunburst cloud above Magic Kingdom, Disney World, Orlando
5DMKII + 24-70 f/2.8, Photomatix HDR.

It is a rare thing when the sun and the clouds come together in such a spectacular way. It’s even more rare that you happen to be standing in the perfect location with your camera in your hands and your batteries are charged :)

It’s time like these that make me perfectly content. Last month I was in Orlando, Florida for the Mashable Connect Conference. I was blessed with a room at the Contemporary Resort with a spectacular view of the Magic Kingdom. I snapped a picture of this view every day I was there, but none of them came out because the weather was either hazy, too bright, or cloudless and flat. I was almost going to give up on this shot, but the day before I was due to leave, a storm started building and produced some of the most spectacular clouds I’ve ever seen. I perched myself on the balcony and waited until the perfect moment and snapped this. I missed dinner, but it was worth it :)

This shot is made of 3 photos combined in Photomatix. I then used Photoshop to add more contrast, definition and warmth.

Creative iPhone photography with Camera+

Aug 3 2010

The newest version of Camera+ offers some powerful tools to take great shots with your iPhone. I’ve seen some breathtaking shots from budding iPhoneographers through our weekly photo contests.

In this video tutorial, I demo some creative ways you can use our new Camera features, Touch Focus and Touch Exposure, to take your iPhone photos to a whole new level. I can’t wait to see your photos!

Link me to any of your great shots on this post!

6 Bad Photos & What I Learned from Them

Jun 1 2010

*early morning dreams*A little good, before I present all the bad…

I’m doing a bit of digital spring cleaning today, starting with my library of photos in Lightroom. During my cleaning, I noticed all the crummy photos I’ve taken over the last few years. After feeling mildly embarrassed, I realized how much I’ve actually learned about photography, simply from taking bad photos.

So, I’m going to do something that I’ve never done, share some of my worst photos (eek) and the lessons I learned from them.

1. Learn to focus your camera manually.

Both focus and composition were not my friend in this picture.

Focusing is one of the most basic photography skills, yet it seems to be the most difficult to master. When I started I relied completely on Auto Focus, which rarely, if ever, worked in low light and back lit situations.

Because of this dependance I spent most of my time during shoots waiting for my camera to grab focus, then actually taking shots. Since I’ve been shooting a lot more video with the 5DMKII, I’ve had to master manual focus. Now, I find my eye is a lot more reliable than auto focus.

2. Learn to expose your pictures correctly.


Ouch, this photo is blinding me!

Nothing you do in post will save an overexposed picture. You cannot recover information that isn’t there to start with, so turn on your histogram and watch out for “blinkies”. Highlight warning flashes on your histogram let you know which parts of your photo are overexposed.

This is particularly useful when you are outside on a sunny day and can’t see your camera’s LCD screen very well. Look in your camera manual for Highlight warning and it should tell you how to set this feature up on your camera.

3. Don’t crop off body parts.

I haz no fingurz!

This would be a good photo except for her missing fingers and elbow… Doh! In going through my old shots, I noticed many shots where I cropped out a lovely model’s foot, chin, arm, or leg. Even your most creative editing job will not save a photo of  model with a missing chin.

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5 Ways to Fall in Love with Photography Again

Apr 27 2010

Lisa with SF Heart in Union Square

I’m back from a quick trip to San Francisco. Although I brought my 5DMKII, I actually spent most of my time shooting with my iPhone. I found myself really enjoying snapping hundreds of pictures with wild abandon, shooting things I would have never “wasted” shots on with my 5DMKII.

This experience was a valuable reminder of what I love about photography: The act of taking pictures. The sheer joy of capturing a moment is such a powerful feeling as a photographer and one that I’ve been missing in recent months.


Team Cheer at the SF Heart, Union Square, SF.

I find that many photographers, especially the perfectionists among us, feel a huge pressure when it comes to their photography. Gaining good editing and photoshop skills, as well as pushing yourself creatively is an important part of becoming a better photographer, but when you start feeling perpetually unsatisfied with every picture you take, you start to lose the passion and love for the thing you love to do.

I’ve noticed this with my attitude towards my own photography, so I thought I’d share some tips to help you generate a little bit of heat between you and your camera.

1. Fill up your memory card.

Union Square, SF, iPhone.

Never limit the number of shots you take based on digital space, just line your pockets with memory cards :) Memory is cheap. Buy plenty of memory cards and don’t be scared of filling up your cards. I carry 2x8GB, 2x4GB, & 2x2GB CFs plus 2x8GB SD cards for my P&S with me all the time.

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5 Tips for Taking Better Event Photos

Mar 24 2010

Go Go Bobsled Go!
5DMKII +16-35mm f/2.8, 1/125 @ f/6.3, ISO 200.

Most photographers start their photographic journey taking photos at special events. Whether it’s a football game, a family wedding, or a rock concert, capturing the raw, spontaneous moments of these events is something all photographers aim to do.

A few weeks ago, I had the rare opportunity to photograph the Olympics in my home town. The action was happening outside my window 24 hours a day for 17 days, and as you can imagine I felt both elated and overwhelmed at the same time.

Besides learning to pace myself and charge batteries each night, I learnt some valuable lessons. Here are my top 5 tips to taking better event photos:

Bobsledding venue 2010 Olympics
5DMKII +16-35mm f/2.8, 1/80 @ f/4.5, ISO 100.

1. Know what you are going to shoot before shoot it.

50% of event photography is preparation. Before you even leave the house, visualize what shots you want to take. Seems like overkill, but if you only get a few seconds chance to capture a bride walking down the aisle or a few one hundredths of a second to catch a speeding bobsled on the track, so you have to make your shots count.

I recommend writing down a shot list (e.g., wide shot of the bobsledding venue, close-up shot of some passionate fans, shot of speeding bobsled etc.) and even sketch out the important shots you want to take. If you don’t know where to start, search Flickr and the web for shots that people are taking of the event have taken at a similar event in the past.

Me & my 5DMKII at the Olympics!
Photo by Scott Meinzer. Me & my 5DMKII + 70-200mm f/2.8.

2. Bring the right lenses

Now that you’ve got your shot list and have an idea of what you plan on shooting, you can choose the right lenses for the job. Ideally, you want cover all your bases with a wide, mid, and telephoto lens. If you lucky to have these options then use them. And no wining about how heavy your lenses are! If you are like me and only own a few mid range lenses, consider renting a wide angle lens like the 16-35mm f/2.8 and a mid-range telephoto lens like the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS.

If you are working with a standard 18-55mm kit lens, you’ve got your wide and mid-ranges covered, but fall short on long distance zoom. You might want to bring along your point and shoot for zoom shots, or just focus on the action you can capture.


This flimsy umbrella will protect me from anything! Maybe not. :(

3. Prepare for bad weather — rain, snow, hail, world-wide apocalypse etc.

Inevitably, if you are shooting outside, it will rain, sleet, hail, or fireballs will fall from the sky. If you are unprepared, bad weather can ruin your gear, your shots, and your shoes. I learnt this the hard way when I had to trek through the slush, snow & mud at the bobsled event in tight jeans and Ugg boots with a floppy canvas bag. By mid-day I had 4 inches of freezing, dirty water in my boots and my photo bag was drenched. Luckily my 5DMKII and the 16-35mm f/2.8 were water-tight, though I did get some crazy condensation in my view finder.

Not that you’d make this same n00b fashion error, but taking a few moments to weather proof your gear and your feet is always a good idea.

Most camera bags offer some kind of water protection, but none are completely waterproof. If you want ultimate water protection, you’ll have to cart around a pelican case. Just to be safe, I always carry a spare plastic bag that fits over my camera bag just in case I get caught in a thunder storm. Smaller cameras can be sealed in plastic ziplock bags. An umbrella can be used to shield your camera when you are changing lenses and works well in snowy conditions as well.

4. Capture the story of the event

Every event has a beginning, middle, and end. Try to capture the entire story of the event. Take pictures of the empty venue and snap shots as people arrive. Show the full scale of the event. During the main event, set your camera to burst mode and shoot as many shots as you can. Bring a lot amount of memory cards. Never let space dictate how many shots you should take.

Set your camera to burst mode and concentrate on capturing the reaction of the audience, as well as the main action. Reaction shots are priceless and often capture the emotion of the event better than the actual event.

5. Get as close as you can to the action

You are never going to get those pure visceral shots if you shoot like a shrinking violet. Watching professional sports photographers at the Olympics made me realize that you really have to get close to the action to get great shots. Even with huge zoom lenses, they parked themselves right against the bobsled track, elbowing their way in, and constantly moved around to get the best shot.

During the Olympics I shot wherever I wanted to shoot without concern for whether it was “allowed” or not. In the past I’ve been so worried about getting in trouble that I’ve missed excellent shooting opportunities. I honestly think the best policy is shoot fast and furious until the cops show up.

Russian Flag

5MKII + 16-35mm f/2.8, 1/320 @ f/5.0 ISO 250.

Many people were surprised that I was able to get so close to the bobsled track when I captured this footage of the USA-2 bobsled crash. I happened to be in the right place at the right time, but I had to really stand my ground when other photographers started trying to push in.

Share your comments & tips below!

How to Take Better Portraits

Nov 9 2009

Photography by Lisa Bettany

Whether you are snapping pictures of your cat, daughter or a glamorous super model the key feature in any portrait is the eyes.

1. Set your Aperture at f/2.0-5.0.
This will give your portrait a nice depth of field with the eyes in focus and falling off around the hair line. If you are shooting in natural light your f-stop will be dictated by how much light you have. Just watch that if you decrease your aperture to < f/2.0 that you are able to get both eyes in focus which is tricky if your subject isn’t straight on.

2. Focus on the middle of the pupil.
It’s very easy to catch focus on the brow or eyelashes. If you can’t grab focus on the eyes, you need more light. Need help trouble shooting light? I’ve got a post about that!

3. Ask your subject to tilt their head down.
This makes the eyes look bigger and is a more flattering angle than an up-the-nose angle. If you can see nose hair, you need to find a better angle. Subjects usually respond to a little direction like, “Tilt your chin down”. Then,  guide them into the most flattering position for their face.

4. Shoot from above.
Again this makes eyes look bigger and faces look thinner. If your subject is taller than you, find a curb or a step. Also, I suggest that you head to IKEA and grab a small step stool for $10. I keep one in the back of my truck, so I always have it on hand for shoots.

5. Light the face with soft, even light.
Harsh light is bad. Shadows are worse. Dappled light is the worst. So, give your subject some lovely soft, even light. They will look better and you won’t have to try to correct your light in post. If you are shooting outside, try to shoot either in the morning or in the late afternoon when the light is soft. If you have some cloud cover then you might be able to shoot anytime as long as there is enough light.

Behind the scenes: AJ shoot

One thing you should purchase is a collapsible reflector. I use a 22″ circular 5 -in-1 reflector. It’s reversible covers give you the option to reflect with silver, gold, white or block light with black. Brand isn’t really important just go to any photography store and buy the cheapest one. If you are financially challenged at the moment, go to your local craft store and buy two large foam core boards in white for about $2. These work great as reflectors.

If you have any tips or questions, head to the comments!

Looking for inspiration

Oct 25 2009

*inspire me*
5DMKII + 85mm f/1.8

I feel like my creativity died with the summer sun. Dull days, rain & all that other work I do to make money have kept me from shooting. I’m mad at myself for letting my photography slowly slip away in the last while.

Other than having to pay the rent and buy food, the main reason that I haven’t been taking photos is that I feel such a pressure to produce “perfect” images. I’ve set a high bar for myself and when I don’t reach it technically or emotionally, I feel let down and oddly self-conscious about my work.

This photo, for instance, is blown out in the centre and the bottom is too dark. I’ve played around with it in Photoshop on and off for a while now, but never felt it was good enough. I have hundreds of images just like this that I’ve worked on and deemed inadequate to post. This has started a vicious cycle that ends up actually affecting my creative process, if not completely destroying it.

What we all need to remember is making mistakes makes you a better photographer. By exploring techniques you haven’t mastered and shooting creatively you learn how you how to use your camera, how to perfect exposure, how to deal with light, how to compose… on and on.

Nobody wants to take bad photos, but everyone does, even professionals. Allowing yourself the freedom to take creative risks and learn from them is one of the best things you can do.

Today I thought to myself, “Just post the sunset shot.” It’s a nice shot of an amazing sunset and landscape. Not my best photo ever, but I like it. The most important point was the fact that this photo meant something to me. And ultimately the most important thing.

If you are in the same boat, remember:

Let yourself make mistakes. Lots of them. Break the rules & Believe in your work.

Now it’s time to take my own advice!

Speaking at Photoshop Live in Washington, DC Nov 2/3

Oct 19 2009

*i don't love you anymore*
5DMKII, 85mm f/1.8, 1/500 at f/5.0, ISO 100.

I am speaking at my first Photoshop conference in Washington, DC on November 2/3. I’m a self-taught photographer, so I think this will be a great opportunity for me to share my workflow & processing style with fellow photographers and learn a few tips from them!
My two sessions are:

How to Make Your Portraits Stand Out (Nov 2nd)
In this session, I want to focus on some Photoshop processes that will make your portraits really pop. I will cover basic retouching techniques, as well as giving you several different processing actions that will take your photos from boring to super awesome. How can you say no to super awesome? You can’t.

From LR to PS: A Look at my Personal Workflow (Nov 3rd)
In this session, I will take a RAW image straight from my camera through to the finished product I would upload onto my server and give to a client. Everything from basic RAW editing in Lightroom, retouching and editing in Photoshop, and tips on how to streamline your photo exporting. You’ll get to ask me any questions you have about my processing or workflow. Sound good? Definitely.

I have 10 Free Passes for my super special VIP guests to attend the full two-day conference and some discount codes as well. Leave me a comment if you’re in the area and would like to come to the event and learn more about my photography.

For more info about the conference.

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